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2004 Pinamar
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Steph's Stories: Argentine Arabian Horse Society Endurance Ride || Life on the Pampas
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Leonard's Story: Argentina Adventure



March 13, Argentine Arabian Horse Society Endurance Ride Pinamar, Argentina

By Steph Teeter

Today I rode a 45 km Endurance ride in Argentina! For this week and next, I am the guest of Miguel Pavlovksy. Miguel is a medical doctor, a hematologist, in Buenos Aires. He and his wife Celina own and operate a large estancia in the pampas, south of Buenos Aires. The estancia produces agricultural products (corn, soy, sunflower), cattle and sheep, and is most famous for its Arabian horse breeding program. Haras San Andres del Moro is the home of truly exceptional performance (track, driving and endurance) Arabian and Arabian cross horses. With over 30 mares and several foundation stallions, the Haras is very productive. The 'Moro' horses are beautiful, with size and substance. One of the foundation stallions 'Fugativo’ who has sired most of the 'Moro’ endurance horses has also performed well in dressage, jumping and driving. His strength and versatility are typical of his offspring as well, with good minds and a very willing work ethic.

Needless to say I am in heaven! I arrived 3 days ago and was met at the airport by Celina and daughter Maya and have been treated like royalty since my arrival! These people are very gracious, and have a wonderful humor and zest for life. Their home is in a large complex, a country club type neighborhood that was developed from the original location of an old Irish school establishment. There are many private homes, as well as a golf course and a stable. Miguel keeps his working horses here and rides them during the week and on weekends when he is not at the estancia (he is still a full-time doctor). On holidays or for endurance rides he transports the horses to his estancia, or to the stable near Pinamar.

We stayed the first night at the house, Miguel arrived home late, we had a late (9pm ­ typical dinner time in Argentina) dinner, packed the truck and left VERY early (3:30)the next morning for the estancia. Miguel had arranged to transport the horses to Pinamar separately. Miguel was to attend an agricultural meeting at the estancia of Claudia Calaballo. Claudia’s grandfather was a German immigrant who built his fortune in Argentina through hard work and enterprise, and Claudia inherited one of the original land holdings, 'Las Cortaderas’ (which is the Argentine word for pampas grass).

Her estancia is one of the largest (over 3,000 hectares) and best operated farms in the region, producing cattle, horses, and agricultural products on the highly productive pampas land of central Argentina. Her operation is a model for many, employing the most modern techniques of farming. This meeting was a monthly gathering of a cooperative of estancia owners and managers in the area. They spent the day learning about the operations of this particular farm through presentations and a tour, and then share their knowledge and discuss current trends and methods.

Claudia is also an enthusiast of breeding (cattle and horses) with an absolute passion for horse breeding. She has carefully cultivated her lines of Arabian horses, mostly Egyptian and Crabbet breeding, and has recently purchased an Arabian stallion from France, a Persik son, with hopes to strengthen her endurance performance lines. She is very motivated to promote the performance horses and the sport of Endurance in Argentina.

Claudia used to organize many of the early Endurance rides at her estancia, through the country and along the beach on her estancia. The early rides (1970’s) were 40km marathons, with no veterinary checks. Far different from the current sport which is run using FEI rules and regulations.

While the morning meeting was taking place (in Spanish, which I was not able to follow well enough) I took a short walk through the grounds, and was given a tour by Claudia’s Gaucho foreman. His English was worse than my Spanish, but we managed to communicate and he showed me the many pastures of mares and stallions ­ all similar to Miguel’s in their size and substance. The Arabians that I've seen here in Argentina are very very nice. They seem to be typically 15 to 15.1 hh and are very substantial ­ good bone and feet, deep heart girth, big hip ­ the type of endurance horse that most of us are looking for.

Claudia’s horses were no exception, very nice horses. After the meetings, tour, and barbeque we headed back to Miguel’s estancia. His son, Andres (the Haras namesake) and wife Lucila (Luli) prepared us dinner. Andi and Luli and their three young children also live on Miguel’s estancia.

The next morning Miguel was to meet with his architect (he and Celina are having a new house built next to the old one, which they will give to their oldest son Miguel). Luli showed me around during the morning and took me on a fun ride through the estancia. Everything here is so green, so much grass. It’s also very flat.

There are many lagoons, and it is near the ocean so birds are abundant. There are groves of Eucalyptus and cottonwood, other hardwoods, and some pines. All of the trees in this area were introduced by the settlers - originally the pampas was only grassland. It’s amazing to see the pampas grass growing everywhere. It’s very tall and since it is late summer here, the flowers are huge and white. They have already lost their seeds so the heads are light and sway with the breeze.

Miguel and I left in the afternoon (with his 4 yr old grand daughter Mora) for Pinamar. The saddles and gear were loaded in the truck, and all of the horses were already at the Pinamar stable. Nine of his horses would ride in this AAHS ride, doing distances of 40km, 80km, and 120 km. (LD, 50 and 75). Miguel’s foreman, Hugo Mendez, would ride - along with his son Hugito and daughter Ana Lia. Hugo’s family is Gaucho, and Hugo still rides with the traditional gaucho saddle and braided leather headstall. Miguel’s son Andi would ride the short trail ride with his two sons Marco and Mateo. Three others would ride as well on Moro horses.

We arrived at the stable and saddled the two horses that we would ride (Mora Austria and Mora Fogoza) for a ride along the beach, to test tack and give the horses a little exercise. It was a lovely ride! The sun set while we were on the beach, the water was choppy with an offshore wind, but the air and breeze were warm. My horse, Mora Fogoza, is an 8 yr old mare, which has done both endurance and driving with Miguel. A very nice, very smooth and strong mare! She would be a wonderful ride. We arrived back at dark and made final preparations for the next day. After a late (typical) dinner at a restaurant in Pinamar, Miguel dropped me at a hotel and Miguel, Celina, Andi and children, went to stay at their friend’s cabin a short distance away.

Miguel was using this 40km as a training ride for his mare, Mora Austria, which he will ride next week at the FEI competition. Next week will be a Federation ride, and also the pre-ride for the 2005 Pan American Championship. There will also be nine Moro horses at the Federation ride, and he will have one of Celina’s mares (an Arab cross) for me to ride in the 80km ride. Miguel and Luli will both ride the 160 km ride, as preparation and demonstration for the 2004 WEC to be held in Dubai. Both horses and riders are already qualified, but will be demonstrating in order to be part of the Argentine team selection.

We woke up very early and drove to the stable. Since his horses are stabled close (10km) to the ride site, we would ride them over, and had to leave the stable at 6:30 in order to arrive and be prepared to start at 7:30. Another early morning, warm air, and a beautiful sunrise as we rode to the ride. The first 10km had some deep sand, as we rode through the dunes. The horses were willing but very well behaved, it was a nice start. There were some VERY fast (crazy) riders, only having 40km to go, some galloped most of the ride. Miguel’s plan was to have a moderate paced, relaxed ride, so as not to tire his mare for the big event next week. It was lovely.

At 10km we arrived at the beach and for the next 15km I was in absolute heaven. We trotted and galloped along the water, sometimes in the sand, sometimes along the tidal pools, a warm breeze coming from the ocean. The water was silver from the morning sun and the light clouds. I grew up along the Atlantic Ocean in Virginia, so this felt like a dream from my childhood ­ the same warm breeze, the same smells. Only this time the sun is in the north, not the south! A very strange thing to think about! Thousands of miles south, so far south that 'south’ is north!

After the miles along the beach we re-traced our path through the dunes and arrived for a short vet check. The pulse parameter was 56, a good idea considering the speeds that these riders do on the short rides. There was a group of people to help untack and cool the horses and we vetted through, for a 20 minute hold.

Celina is the ride 'boss’ ­ keeping track of all the riders, the cards, and the times to go out. She is very efficient. When I told her how impressed I was at the job she was doing she smiled and said "well mostly I spend my time 'enduring’ Miguel" ­ something about a strong-minded woman and a competitive husband that makes one imagine that sparks might fly during the heat of competition!

Miguel is a superb horseman, very accomplished and serious about achieving excellence, and has been at the highest International level in competitive driving. He is currently the high-point rider in Argentina, and appears to be well on his way to the top in Endurance as well as driving.

We had a nice rest, the horses ate well, and then we left for the last 10km loop. The clouds were building and it was misting a little rain, Miguel said "no problem, it will just be a little shower".

Well it did rain, a nice warm rain, but we got soaked during the last loop. We rode through the outskirts of Pinamar (a rather large beach resort town) winding down sandy roads through the dwellings of some of the poorer people. Happy children waved to us, dogs barked and followed, and we had nice last loop. Argentina is just emerging from a serious depression, the peso had a drastic devaluation in 2001, and the economy pretty much collapsed. Many middle class Argentineans were suddenly out of work, and the level of poverty and unemployment is still very high in this country.

Tonight there will be an awards banquet, meanwhile I’m sitting happily at the computer in my hotel room, remembering the past three days here, still amazed that I am in Argentina!! The PAC pre-ride is next weekend, I have heard that there are three other Americans coming, but I’m not sure exactly who. I believe Valerie Kanavy, Bev Gray and Cia Reis. I’ll probably learn more this week, and will try to post more as I get more information.

Hasta luego!

Steph

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