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Re: RC: Re:CONTROL AND COURTESY
CMKSAGEHIL@aol.com on 06/01/99 12:59:01 PM
Sent by: CMKSAGEHIL@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 6/1/99 8:58:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
lindac@gilroy.com
>writes:
>
><< Rather than using a Kimberwicke, I prefer a short shanked pelham with a
> mullein mouth. >>
>
>Yes, this is a nice alternative to the Hartwell pelham--very similar.
What's a Hartwell pelham? I've never heard the term before.
One of the newer developments in English-style pelham and curb
bits is the so-called "Polo" bit. I've also now heard it
called a "humane" curb or pelham. The cheeks are joined to
the mouthpiece with a swivel so that when you pull on the
curb rein the bit has no mouth action at all (unless you pull
very hard). The mouthpieces tend to be very big, however: big
broad flat copper pieces. They strike me as too much for a
horse to wear for very long periods of time.
I've found a fairly narrow low-ported, short-shanked German
dressage curb that also has the shanks attached to the mouthpiece
in a swivel. I'm going to give it a try whenever (and if ever)
I start my horse back in ring work. It doesn't have "stops"
on the swivels, though, and I'd worry the mouthpiece is just
going to flop upside down.
You know, it is all well and good to talk about the utility
of curbs, but I find there are really two situations:
1) my horse is getting very strong and wants to go too
fast and doesn't want to listen
2) my horse is extremely hyper and is crow hopping around
The curb action is useful in the first, most common situation.
In the second situation, I've already got a horse that's
behind the bridle and in my lap. I'd be taking my life in my
hands if I touched the curb at that point. Levade anyone?
How about backward sommersault! In this situation the only
way "out" I've really found is to establish forward motion
of some kind, usually a slow trot, before I dare try
to control the speed with snaffle *or* curb.
Linda B. Merims
lbm@ici.net
Linda_Merims@ne.3com.com
Massachusetts, USA
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