Re: RC: Need help with panicky horse

[Horsestwo@aol.com]

In a message dated 3/31/99 6:30:56 PM US Mountain Standard Time, 
DAldr94141@aol.com writes:

<<  Hello everyone. I have a 12 yr. old Shagya Ayrab who ties well in her
 stall, out of her stall and ok in crossties, but not real good. Everytime
 (which has only been about 6 times) I tie her to the trailer, she for no good
 reason, will back up, panic and break her halter and walk away. I think it's
 the big scary 2 horse trailer she's tied to but what can I do to "cure" her 
of
 doing this again? Anyone have any good training methods? She was ok to catch,
 but I don't like this happening time and again. I would appreciate any help.
 Thanks. Deb
  >>

It doesn't sound as if she was panicking as much as struggling to achieve her 
desired outcome-freedom.  Since I am on record as really liking the John 
Lyons methods I will give you that perspective.  There are some ground rules 
used to evaluate any training method: 1) it must be safe for the human (i.e. 
if things go bad is there a great possibility of getting hurt?); 2) it must 
be safe for the horse; 3) the horse must be calmer at the end of the lesson.  
Also, you must incorporate steps into the lesson because when you start with 
your goal you end up with a wreck.

Some gimmicks work with some of the horses some of the time but there is no 
substitute for going back to the basics and making sure she has been taught 
to give to pressure.  Using war bridles, "be nice" halters or even inner 
tubes are a short cut to teaching the horse to give to pressure with a 
regular halter and lead rope.  Are you always going to have to use these 
devices, even the tubes, every time you tie her up?  I don't have the 
knowledge or patience to find the right amount of inner tubing and tie the 
correct knot so it won't slip, etc. Anytime a horse is pulling back there is 
a chance she could strain the muscles in her neck. Rather than mess with this 
problem every time I tie her I would spend the time necessary now to teach 
her to respond correctly.  Because she is a confirmed puller now I would even 
use a bridle to start and then progress to whatever halter and lead you 
intend to use in the future. 

 JL likes the full cheek snaffle because when you put pressure on one side, 
the cheek pieces on the other side pull on the horse's face.  This spreads 
out the pressure to more than just the corners of the mouth so is the 
gentlest, most effective way to get the idea across.  Snapping the lead rope 
to the ring of the bit on the left side get her moving and add pressure to 
the lead rope until she softens her neck to look at you.  She might stop her 
feet but that is OK as long as she is softening her neck.  If she stiffens 
her neck and just swings her hindquarters away that doesn't count.  Get her 
feet moving again and ask her to soften again.  You must release the pressure 
as soon as she softens.  This release is the reward.  It is the "yes, that's 
the right answer" to your question "can you soften your neck?"  When a horse 
has its spine in alignment it can use its whole body to pull but when you get 
the head out of that alignment by softening its neck you take away all that 
power.  So you are teaching her to give to pressure first off to the side and 
then you will be able to put that pressure straight down and have her give in 
that direction.  This will take hundreds of repetitions from both sides.  
Don't release the pressure unless and until she gives to the side relaxing 
her neck muscles.  Don't ever jerk the lead but you can add a considerable 
amount of pressure to show her that when she gives you her head (softening 
her neck) you immediately release the pressure.  This is an example of the 
"conditioned response" that I spoke of in my other post.  She has been used 
to obtaining her own "release" so it will take some effort on your part to 
teach her a new way.  This exercise has multiple benefits, too.  Ever had a 
horse get the lead rope caught up over its head when tied long? The snubbed 
horse will usually fight it until something gives.  What about the horse who 
steps on lead rope or reins and pitches a fit?  If this lesson has been 
taught correctly the horse will respond by giving toward the pressure giving 
you time to correct the problem.

I have only scratched the surface on what JL spends an entire article 
describing so I would urge you to find his tapes or his magazine "Perfect 
Horse" and find out more.  Good luck with whatever you do and remember to 
stay safe.

Melanie in AZ


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