I've found that the easiest way to teach a horse to neckrein is to use a neck rope, using techniques taught by
Linda Tellington-Jones, TTEAM. I ride in a small enclosed area to start with, bareback, so I can use leg cues
as effectively as possible.
You just start "steering" the horse with the neck rope (any slightly stiff-but with a little give-rope will do,
needs to have several inches excess around neck of horse). Use the reins of the bridle initially, gradually
transferring your cues to the neck rope as the horse gets the idea that you're directing him with the rope. Put
the neck rope in the same place on the horse's neck as you would the reins when neckreining, say for turning,
move rope 1/2 way up horse's neck and turn him with it. They catch onto this amazingly fast and soon you can
just use the rope and your legs to direct him where you want to go.
For stopping, drop rope down to base of neck and pull back, using verbal command of "whoe" as well as the usual
weight cues (shifting weight slightly back, dropping weight onto your seat, stopping your body movement as you
ask the horse to stop). Soon they learn to stop when you do these things.
To get the hosre to back, keep rope at the base of the neck (at withers) and pull back, using verbal command
(if he doesn't know this, do it from the ground first and teach him). Teaching a horse to back with a neck rope
is especially helpful if you have a horse that resists backing by putting his head up in the air and pulling
against bit and hollowing his back. With the neck rope, there's no pressure on the horse's mouth and they'll
usually drop their head down and back nicely.
I have taught several horses to neckrein using this method and can't imagine doing it any other way now. A
friend had her horses at a western trainer for starting and she wanted them to learn to neckrein. He told her
that would take much longer (weeks) and more expense, of course. I rode the two horses with a neck rope and
this "advanced" training took all of about 30 minutes per horse. Two sessions of neck rope and they now neck
rein. It's so simple, gentle, and fun! The horses are learning something without force and also learn to pay
attention to you and "listen".
I usually ride with a neck rope in an enclosed area only if I'm not wanting to use a bridle. If I'm out on the
trail and want to do this, I put a bridle on the hosre as a backup just in case he gets spooked or stops paying
attention. One thing that a smart horse will figure out real quick is that you don't have a whole lot of
control with just a neck rope. They must choose to listen to you and do as you ask, and it usually goes that
way with no problem. But, you get a horse that is untrusting or gets easily frightened, and it takes a while to
get their confidence and obediance. It does work tho, and is wonderful for getting that confidence back and
also for the rider, who also learns to use leg and weight cues more effectively.
> In regards to farriers: How do I know what training a farrier has? Ask him! A competent farrier is happy to tell you about his training and/or experience.
Some
> schools have intense training some have basic training? If I need
> corrective work done, how do I know the person is REALLY qualified?Consult your veterinarian or local vet college and ask for their recommendation. Also you can ask local horse
people that are active in the sport you are doing or are professionals.
I don't want to trust just anyone. Any Comments?
Don't be afraid to question the farrier and see if he has had experience dealing with your horse's particular
problem. Also, learn what you can by reading books and learn what a good shoeing/trimming job should look like.
Read up on your horse's problem and compare what the books say to what your farrier says. I have Doug Butlers
"Principals of Horseshoeing" and I consult that whenever I have a question about what the farrier wants to do
to my horse. If the book agrees with his evaluation, I figure he knows what he's doing. Finding a good farrier
is always a challenge, but there are a lot of good ones out there. When I moved to my present location five
years ago, I tried numerous farriers before finally finding one that did a great job on my horses. This took
four years, and the one I use now was recommended by a veterinarian. It's often frustrating, but just goes
along with owning a horse. If you want to do more with your horse (i.e., distance rides) you have to go through
the extra steps it takes to get the best care possible, shoeing included.
Good luck!
Ruth Bourgeois