Endurance.Net Ridecamp Archives

Hi Trish,

You don't have to shoe.   Before I get flamed, I am definitely not a 
"barefoot radical".   I know my old TB Magnum is better with shoes 
on.   End of Story.

Anyways, Easy boots will stay on and they are a great option for you.
What Corry Clinton and Karen Chaton taught me is to just get used 
to using them properly.   Fit them.   *I* use the teeth, although some 
clamp the teeth down to avoid hoof wall damage.   Blue's hoof wall is 
fine... I use leave the teeth.   Your horse will need heel for the boot 
strap to grip.   Don't let the strap come up over the heel bulbs.   This 
irritates Blue anyways.   :)

For training rides, especially on pavement, wrap the hoof once or 
twice in duct tape.   Start from the center of a strip of duct tape.   
Place the center over the heal and wrap the two ends forward just 
under the fur along the top of the hoof.   The teeth will grab the tape.
The tape will grip the hoof all around and give the teeth something 
else to grab onto.   This will do fine for most training rides. 

Just yesterday Blue walked into a dirt tank with   mud that came up 
to atleast his pasterns.   I couldn't tell how deep the mud was in the 
middle of the tank because I couldn't see through the mucky water
he stirred up.   I told y'all he must drink when he finds water.   :)   I was 
a bit worried about the boots after that (the tape and the boots would 
come off if I had then galloped up a hill, say), but they stayed on fine 
in that muck and they stayed on until we got back to the trailer (walk 
/ trot a couple miles in).   That's what I use to train.   I don't ride Blue 
much barefoot.   He loves his boots though.

For a 50, I foam them on just so I have that extra reassurance that I 
won't lose one.   (I have lost them post dirt tanks if they get soaked, 
but I only lost the one... the other 3 stayed on... and the one I replaced 
at lunch I just used duct tape and that stayed on fine for the last 10 
miles... and I got the boot back... thank you to whoever picked it up.) 
I treat the bottom of the hoof and a bit of the bottom of the boot with
PAM spray just before I foam them on.   Lets the foam release a bit 
easier post ride.   Boots stay on this way... the foam still seals well and 
it is very secure between hoof wall and boot.

Post ride, spray a bit of WD-40 (Thanks Corry!) around the top of boot 
between the foam and hoof and let them "soak" a few hours.   Pry boot 
and foam off using long / large screw driver.   Work screwdriver 
inbetween foam and hoof down to bottom of boot.   Pry outwards and 
work foam and boot away from hoof wall.   Pop boot off.   Pry hard... the 
boot will stretch and then retain it's shape.
 
They aren't that hard once you get the hang of them.   They need to be 
the right size.   The strap should fit just at the heel.   The tension should 
be so that you can't flip them with your hand (well *I* can't), instead 
step on the clasp to snug the boot.   You don't need to worry about snugging
them down when you use foam though.   Karen showed you don't even need 
a heel strap or even a back on the boot when you use foam.   Blue tore off 
the whole clasp and wire mechanism from one back boot by stepping on it 
in the trailer prior to the Caja del Rio ride.   I used wire cutters to get the 
clasp and wire off, but left the boot.   It was fine all day and it took as much 
effort to get off as the others.   :)

To remove foam from the boots, boil them in water, then you will be able 
to remove the foam easier as the boot and the foam cool at different rates.   
Boiling the boots doesn't harm them at all.   Matter of fact, nothing seems to 
harm the boots.   I use a set for an entire year... until they are worn smooth
on the bottom.   Then I buy a new set.   Horse's feet look great barefoot.

Hope this helps,

Kathy Myers
in Santa Fe, NM