Endurance.Net Ridecamp Archives

Thanks ,I  know this.I don't do it this way. I give little 'dressage type 
cues' But he sometimes  ignores me and goes forward thru the bit.(ah, yes, 
he does tend to disregard the bit).It only works this way, a)if I have him 
faced into the fence, or am on the ground. I am working on transitions, 
different bits and one rein stop to get him to stop going through the bit.I 
have a french link snaffle,  low port  hinged myler and a S hack A harsher 
bit does work better, BUT I want to train him to cues , not just pain.And 
when speed enters or excitment if it is a harsher bit , he will start 
tossing his head(long time ago I used a pelham on others advice.,learned 
that is a good way to make him toss his head and buck) I can really pull on 
the snaffle if he's excited, and 'eventually' he listened, but at least I 
didn't get head flipping and bucking. He just wants to do what he wants. . 
.(But that was more in the beginning, I can rate him some  with half halts, 
at least while alone or with someone he knows).
Something he needs ,and now is a good time and we are gearing up to 
re-condition. My aim is for the best trained horses I can manage, with the 
time I have (and I have more than most)
 I have found with my green mare and now 3 yr old surprise, that if they 
are made to back on the ground (like whenever I feed I make them back up a 
step or two) they seem to transfer it much quicker and nonresistant under 
saddle..  R mus thave missed those lessons, He was not really trained , just 
ridden so I hav eot undo mistakes and lapses. I think sometimes you just 
have to dig in and outlast them.
  I did try carrots  on 2 occasions, he did it real well. I MAY have to do 
the carrot thing for a few sessions ,till the cue is fixed, then extingush 
the carrots.Ther have been a few things I have had to work that way.I am not 
a purist, I will try what works and isn't dangerous or cruel  till I they 
get  it.   Laurie

> Too many people try to get horses to back up by simply hauling back on the
> reins.  This doesn't work--or even if the horse backs up, it will do so in
> a resisting manner.
>
> To teach a horse to back, one has to "drive" the hindquarters forward and
> then limit forward motion with "fixed" hands (does not mean rigid
> hands--in fact, you may need to "chat" gently with the mouth to do this,
> with small alternating motions of the reins/bit) so that the direction of
> motion is backward.  For some reason, the need to use one's legs to get
> the horse collected (on the HQ) seems to evade many people when they try
> to back up.
>
> Heidi
>
>
> ============================================================
> Common sense should also be a part of the decision making process. If you
> see someone who doesn't have any, hand them your tool box.
> ~ Lisa Salas - The Odd Farm
>
> ridecamp.net information: http://www.endurance.net/ridecamp/
>
> ============================================================

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