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[RC] re: Shape of The Saddle Tree - dixie midnightOn 9/24/03 Melody wrote:"My question is.... Should the final tree shape (before padding and all are attached to it) sit in perfect complement to your horse's back shape?... i.e., no pinching, no rocking, no gaps." An entire 3-volume encyclopedia (two have been published) has been written about saddle making and saddle fitting: The Stohlman Encyclopedia of Saddlemaking. It's primarily for the saddlemaker and is a rather complete compendium. If you can find 'em it's well worth having. That having been said, I'll try to answer your questions.... The final tree shape, as it relates to the HORSE, not the rider, (which has a whole different series of measurements) has a number of measurements to consider; The Bars...ROCK (forward/backward up/down tree movement like a rocking chair), FLARE (rounded angles at the very front of the Bars at both the cantle and the pommel for muscle clearance during all gaits), TWIST (a banana-like curve from the front of the bars to the rear for fitting between the shoulder area, upper ribs, and loins--it curves out at the shoulder and loin and curves in at the ribs--like a banana). Now, the purpose of the bars is to rest on the horse's back, and evenly place the rider's weight on the back. The inside of the bars (the full-length of the gullet) must be slightly ABOVE the backbone of the horse. If the backbone comes up through the gullet of the tree, that's a bad fit, and if there's a gap between the bars (at the inside of the gullet) that's a bad fit, too. The longer the bars, the better the weight distribution. Short bars tend to sore backs. The Gullet...THE most important part of fitting your saddle! The forward part of the gullet (the part under the pommel) should have a clearance of a full 1½"! The amount of TWIST in the bars determines the gullet height, as does the gullet WIDTH! Too low a gullet and the tree is riding on the withers, causing all sorts of soring problems; too high a gullet and the FLARE will dig into the horse's skin, resulting in soring problems. Seat Lengths...The shape of the rider's body, the length of the rider's legs, diameter of the rider's thighs, and the size of the rider's tee-eye-enshun, ALL determine the size and PLACEMENT of the saddle's seat, which affects where the rider's weight will be borne by the horse. If you cannot actually sit the tree before your saddle is made, your maker will need the following: Your height, weight, inseam of pants length, measurement around the hips, and measurement of thigh. Be sure to let your maker know if you prefer a loose or snug-fitting seat. Remember--a seat that's a bit longer will be more comfortable than one that's too short. IMPORTANT: If you lengthen the seat, you'll also have to lengthen the BARS! However--the MAXIMUM bar length should NOT exceed 23½"! Try to retain 2½" to 3" of bar behind the cantle. The maximum seat length should be 17", unless a large and heavily built horse is used! "???? then when the horse moves, their back changes shape..... so how does the saddle maker - using TRADITIONAL trees - shape the tree to account for these changes at the walk, trot, canter.......?" This is where all the above-mentioned stuff goes to work: The BARS distribute the rider's weight, the ROCK allows the horse to collect and his back to move up and down, the FLARE keeps the front and rear of the BARS from digging into the horse's skin and muscles. the TWIST allows the horse to turn and bend, the GULLET keeps the saddle positioned properly, and off the horse's soring places, the SEAT PLACEMENT puts the whole combination in balance to not sore the horse. Got it? Now check THIS out: I have found the Equimeasure kit to be the absolute BEST way to duplicate the exact shape of the horse's back. It saves all those tedious measurements, checking this, checking that, testing this, etc, etc, etc. I think the link is http://www.equimeasure.com. I've built saddles, re-built saddles, and had saddles made for me and others. When I tried that Equimeasure thingy, it was the easiest thing I'd ever done to get a saddle fit. I still get the tree sent in for fitting to the horse, but every one has been dead-spot-on-the-money. No, I don't have a single thing to do with the Equimeasure folks, but a good thing deserves being spread around, and the Equimeasure is a good thing! If you're getting a saddle made, use the Equimeasure Kit. It ain't the cheapest knife in the drawer, but it sure beats a sore horse and a $addle that doesn't fit! Of course I ALSO gotta tell ya that once you have your new saddle (or a comfy old one) ya gotta get a Genuine, Original Dixie Midnight No-Sweat vent pad to go underneath it! Guaranteed to keep your saddle pad clean and dry, and your horse's back cooler, no matter how hard you ride! Click on the RC link to see, or check it out in the Archives! Yes, it's a shameless plug, but what the heck, right? http://www.dixiemidnight.nv.switchboard.com Questions on saddle-fitting, sure! On the No-Sweat vent pad? You betcha! E-mail or call me! Karl Dixie Midnight No-Sweat vent pads http://www.dixiemidnight.nv.switchboard.com Come see us! _________________________________________________________________ Instant message in style with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Ridecamp is a service of Endurance Net, http://www.endurance.net. Information, Policy, Disclaimer: http://www.endurance.net/Ridecamp Subscribe/Unsubscribe http://www.endurance.net/ridecamp/logon.asp Ride Long and Ride Safe!! =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
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