Re: RC: Finding the right bit

[Jim Holland <lanconn@tds.net>]

This reminds me of Sunny when I first started riding him.  He was racing
bred. and young, very willing, and enthusiastic.  He always asked to go,
but didn't need a lot of physical restraint.  In fact, I have never
ridden him with a bit.  The guy I got him from at 18 months old
suggested a martingale and a strong bit since he had a head high
problem.  I dispensed with all of that and went to an Arabian S-Hack,
which helped tremendously.  In conjunction with this I taught him a
"head down" cue, which is the real key to this problem.  

You normally teach this as a ground manners thing by applying pressure
at the poll with your hand and and the same time pulling down on the
lead line, releasing when the horse drops his head.  This not only
teaches the horse to yield to pressure when the lead line is pulled down
(as when he steps on his reins) but allows you to clip the bridal path,
clean ears, etc. without a step ladder.  It's real easy to teach and I
recommend you do this first.

Then teach her a "head down" cue from the saddle.  I use a gentle
"sawing" motion with the reins combined with a little pressure.  It just
rocks the hackamore across  the nose.  This will also work with a bit. 
It will take a while before she figures out what you want, but
eventually she will figure it out.  Just stand there quietly and do that
as an annoyance.  Soon, she will start to try things to figure out how
to get you to quit doing that.  As soon as she drops her head the LEAST
little bit, instantly release the pressure and quit sawing. Keep doing
this and you will find that eventually she will put her nose on the
ground for you.  Keep the lessons short (don't practice this for a hour
at once!) and mix in walking around, other cues, etc.  Keep working on
it every chance you get.  When you can put her nose two inches off the
ground, then start asking her to do this on the move. Pick up the slack,
rock the hack and the head drop will occur there as well...even at a
gallop with tension on the reins. You can use any cue....I like this one
because I can use it at speed.

Sunny will do this for me even at the beginning of a ride running with
the leaders. I have subtly modified the cue so that he knows in those
conditions I will release only when he rounds his back and drops his
nose. The dropping of the nose and head, by the way, is also a "calm
down" cue, very useful under these circumstances. I also use it to
remind him to lower his nose way down and "stretch" occasionally as we
trot along later in the ride.

This cue has a couple of other useful purposes.  Sunny is not allowed to
eat on the trail without a cue to do so.  I just "point" him at a hill
of grass and give him a "head down" cue....he then knows he can eat.
This solves the problem of a horse nibbling on the shrubbery when you're
trying to trail ride, but gives you the option of eating on the trail
during an endurance ride. The other use is that when you are in a creek
or other water source, I can ask him to put his nose down to the water. 
In fact, I have done it so much and so persistently that he has learned
that if he takes a sip even if he doesn't want to drink, I will let him
raise his head and move on.  This wasn't intentional but worked out
great.

I expect Sunny to be gentleman at all times.  A well trained horse with
immaculate ground manners who respects you as herd leader is a pleasure
to ride and be around. It will also prevent a lot of behavior problems. 
It's interesting...everytime someone meets him, they ALWAYS ask "Where
did you find such a nice horse".  The answer is "They don't come that
way...you make them that way by teaching ground manners and cues".

While I'm on my soapbox, one of my pet peeves is horses that won't stand
quietly for their riders at the start of a ride.  They mill around,
stomping on spectators, kids, and dogs, causing other horses to kick,
and sometimes dumping their riders. It is so easy to solve this problem,
but you can't do it at the ride.  Just teach your horse basic skills
like sidepassing, turn on fore/hind, back, etc.  Then practice standing
still without eating or moving around.  If he does, immediately go into
a "routine" for about 30 seconds of practicing all those things,
switching between cues as rapidly as he can respond.  Pretty soon he
will figure out every time he moves around, you give him work to do. 
Being basically lazy, he will soon much prefer to stand quietly instead
of running through his repertoire.  (As a side effect, he gets really
good at cues) No need to chastise him in any way.  Works like a charm
for any horse...just gotta take the time to teach him this in a calm
situation.

Sorry for the long post...it just sorta spilled out there. <grin>

Jim and Sun of Dimanche

APKBUICU@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hello all:
> I recently purchased an Arabian mare who has had a short racetrack career.
> She tends to hold her head quite high and I am having some difficulty finding
> the right bit for her. I tried a Mylar level two snaffle with a short shank
> and she did well except that it was to wide. I then tried a 4-3/4"
> Kimberwicke and she hates it. She is soft in the mouth and does not need a
> bit that will stop her, she just needs something that will allow her to round
> her back and begin to use her hind end. She is  6 years old, under saddle for
> a year last October, 6 months walk/trot on the trail and 6 months track
> training. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
> 
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