Riding in Pinamar
Sunday morning, just finished breakfast (coffe and toast) at the little
hotel we're staying - 'Las Auracarias'. Las Auracarias are nut bearing pine
trees with short scaly leaves (looking more like cedars, but actually in the
Pine family). The native Mapuche people in the mountain region of northwest
Patagonia depended upon these nuts for part of their diet. It's an
important, and also beautiful tree - tall and dark green - symmetrical
foliage. There's a little Auracaria tree growing next to the hotel, but I
don't think it would feed many... It's a sweet hotel, family owned, nothing
fancy but clean and friendly.
We had a good ride yesterday. It was a very small ride, 55 riders in total
for all distances - 20km, 40km, 80km and 120km. Felt a lot like a small
local Idaho ride. (though the 20km gallop along the Atlantic coast was a fur
piece from Idaho). The ride was organized by the Arab Horse Society (AHS).
Even the small local rides are run according to FEI rules - but the only
real obvious difference is requiring horses to have identification papers
(passports) and having to meet weight (75kg) in the adult category. It
didn't feel any different otherwise.
The Arabian Horse Society has some parallels to our AERC in the scheme of
Endurance in Argentina. Smaller, and without it's own set of rules for the
sport - but AHS has been organizing Endurance rides in Argentina for the
past 25 years, and continues to do so. It's the backbone of the sport in
Argentina. The FEI rides, organized by the Argentine Federation (like USEF in the USA) are relatively new, for the past 6 years or so.
There seems to be a little friction developing between the two
organizations (what's new :) especially regarding scheduling of
rides. With more Federation rides being organized some of the smaller,
local rides are being squeezed a little - attendance is smaller. But
it's pretty minor, and it's a little different here because
individuals don't bear all of the financial burden of the ride. As
always there is a group of individuals that do all of the work, but
the ride is financed by the AHS.
The other main difference is that the ride participants don't 'camp' at the
rides. There are no big gooseneck trailers and portable fences. The horses
are stabled in camps or stalls provided by the organizing group, and all of
the riders stay in hotels. Only the grooms camp out - in improvised tents
and small trailers or vans. So this somewhat limits the location of rides -
they can't be out in the boonies where hotels are scarce.
But the Pinamar ride is a long established ride - gorgeous trails
along the coast and through the woods. (pine forests, not native to
the area but planted 30+ years ago by a visionary). And also
following the dirt roads through part of town - the outer
nieghborhoods with kids playing and lots of barking dogs. Plenty to
look (and spook) at. But it is really tough - lots of deep sand in the
dunes. And, depending upon the tide, and how far out the horses can
ride, the sand can be good and hard, or soft and deep. It's a
challenging ride - it's going to be a tough Pan American for horses
that don't have the sand conditioning.
Miguel and I finished this ride, with a few adventures along the way,
with turtle ride times of around 6:50. Considering the deep sand and
high heat and humidity, this would have been a respectable mid-pack
finish in the US. They really do ride faster here in Argentina.
We had a fun day though. All of the Pavlovsky horses were stabled at
Susana Lima's place, around 8km from the Hippocampo (where the ride
takes place). Susana was also in Dubai for the WEC, it was fun to see
her here on her home turf. She and Mercedes Tapia rode the 120km ride
together, I suspect they had a lot to talk about. The experiences that
riders share at the Big events are very significant. I've noticed that
horses that do 100 mile rides together remember each other for life. I
think it's similar with riders. (not that we'd ever actually forget
each other, but the friendships and acquaintances take on a new
level).
The 80km distance was scheduled to begin at 7AM - one hour after the
120's left. To arrive here with the horse, from Susana's place, would
mean being at the stable before 5am, saddling up, and ponying or
riding the horses to the Hippocampo. I've had a persistent cold the
past week, fairly tired and whiney in general. Miguel took pity on me
and offered to bring my horse over, I could meet them at the
Hippocampo. A short hesitation... and a grateful thank you (Gracias)!
An extra hour of sleep would be wonderful. Miguel is an extrodinarily
dedicated, hard-working, focused individual. His generosity never
ceases to amaze me, in many ways.
John and I drove over from the hotel (10 minute drive) and met up with the
horses and crew. Pinney's were handed out, vet cards arranged, crewing area
set up (a formidable vetting area for so many Pavlovsky horses and riders).
I would ride Miguel's mare Mora Afamada - a very tall, very strong,
beautiful gray mare. She had only recently been brought back from extended
rest (a minor tendon injury 1 1/2 yrs ago) and was a little plump still, a
little anxious about being out in the big world, and a little hard to
mount... but once on board a wonderful ride. Very nice mare - big strong
steady gaits, a ride that is easy on the body.
Miguel was riding a gelding from the farm that was fairly
inexperienced, so we planned on a conservative ride (by Argentine
standards...). Pablo, Miguel's son-in-law would ride Mora Furiosa - a
feisty gray mare with a lot of drive. She had had a series of mishaps
in the previous months (halter moments) so her debut kept getting
extended. Hopefully this would be a good ride for her. There were 8
Mora/Moro horses entered in total - plus the 4 grandchildren and Andie
(one of Miguel's sons) doing the children's ride with Susana's
horses. Everybody here pitches in and helps though - when not riding,
you're helping. Just like home. It's quite the event.
The first loop was pure heaven. Although I kept thinking, as we were
galloping along, 'this is conservative??', I had the luxury of being
the guest, being a happy follower, not to worry, just ride and
enjoy. We hit the beach around 5km from camp, and then 20 km of
galloping along the coastline. 10km out to a check point, and then a
10km return. On the way out the horses were a little worried about the
waves, skittering out when a wave broke long - plus the stray beach
comber, fisherman, dog, crabnets - it was fun.
We passed under a pier at one point, 7 horses galloping together, and
7 horses coming to a screeching halt, a reiner's move, when just as we
were ready to ride under the pier walkway, a man and fishing pole made
his appearance above. It made great tracks in the sand :)
We started spreading out a little along the coastline, those intent on a
competetive ride stretching out their lead. After the checkpoint and water,
we headed back down the coast, repeating the trail back to camp. This time
the horses were loving the water, choosing to gallop in the shallow waves. I
think the water was cool and fresh, and maybe a little fun. For the riders,
for me, it was definitely fun!!
Back to camp, a decent pulse down, though my plump mare took a little
longer. Fun doing vet stuff in a different language... I can understand most
of it, especially when discussing vet scores, but still have to leave a
little to faith.
The second loop was a little more eventful. The horses still felt
strong, and I still thought (this is conservative???) but had faith in
Miguel and his horses. Around 5km out, the stirrup leather on Miguel's
saddle broke. He tried to fix it, ended up tieing the stirrup on with
the single strap of the leather and hooking the buckle on to the
saddle stirrup leather hanger. Less then optimum, but it seemed that
it might work. But it didn't. We made it to the beach again, for
another stretch along the coast, but just as we hit the sand the
leather broke again. There was nothing left to patch at this point.
A small voice from a nearby pickup emerged, a friendly face, an
exchange in Spanish between Miguel and the voice, and our guardian
angel appeared. Marta Acunado, with an extra stirrup leather and
stirrup came to the rescue. What luck! She was parked there waiting
for her friend who was riding just in front of us, and just happened
to have extra tack! Not only luck, but again life in full
circle.
While Miguel struggled with attaching the new stirrup leather onto his
saddle (not designed for easy exchange) Marta and I blithely chatted
away. Her English is perfect, having spent many years as an Argentine
ex-pat. She competes in Show Jumping, and for her Endurance is for fun
- for relief - for the experience of participating in a sport where
humans and equines are so closely bound - where everybody counts and
everybody cares. The riders, trainers, ride managers, helpers, grooms,
all are important, and all willing to help each other.
Marta also took the opportunity to tell me how closely she had been
following the events in Dubai and Abu Dhabi - how much she appreciated
the coverage and stories that we provide on Endurance Net. She said
"I've been meaning to send you email, thanking you for the 'real-life'
adventures, but I guess I'll thank you in person instead!" What fun,
what a cool thing to be standing there, on the coast of Argentina,
talking of horses and Dubai and comraderie (while Miguel was still
grunting and sweating over his saddle and stirrup leather...).
Finally, we were ready to ride again. The new stirrup leather wasn't
exactly the right length, but ok to go. Another lovely, but shorter,
ride along the coast and back, this time 'my' mare was really seeking
the water, so lots of splashing. We made it back to camp, a little
more relaxed, at this point confirmed tail-enders. It was really
really hot now - humid, and no air. The feeling before a storm -
Miguel said they call it 'pesado' which translates to 'heavy'. And it
was hot and heavy. The horses took longer to pulse down this time,
especially my chubby mare. But vetted ok, not perfect - a little
dehydrated - but good to go.
By now the crewing area had transformed into a small lake. Team
Pavlovsky had two home-made water cooling pumping things set up - a
water pump hooked to a car battery - pumping cold water out of big
tanks, with hoses and nozzles to cool the horses. The tanks are
covered with spray-on foam for insulation - interesting design,
slightly resembling a large fungus- and capable of rapidly cooling the
horses. With 8 horses to cool, in a fairly small area, and a very
enthusastic crewing team, things were getting pretty wet. We waded
through the hold, sorting through saddle racks, tack, crew and small
children (more grandchildren than horses) and headed out on the next
loop.
This loop was through town - to the outskirts of Pinamar - dirt roads
winding through the neighborhoods where the 'regular' folk live. Old
men sitting outside their houses, children playing games in the road,
folks on bicycles and scooters, ponies tied in the back yards, laundry
hanging between trees, smells of fried food, and the ubiquitous
barking chasing dogs. Dogs everywhere! It was actually fun riding
these roads, lots to look at, lots of friendly smiles and waves and
questions from the big-eyed kids. And a smile and wave always got a
smile and wave in return.
Miguel and I were pretty relaxed by now - walking, trotting, some
cantering, and lots of talking. No hurry. 'If you can't win, you might
as well make a pretty good showing at being last'. Marta's friend was
riding either in front or behind most of the day, and she was always
there to tell us when we missed a turn (too much talking :) .
Back to camp, the lake was getting larger, vetting through, and then
one more short 10km loop. Relaxed and pleasant. It was really hot and
heavy still but the horses felt strong. I think 'my' mare, Mora
Afamada is quite good - even with minimal conditioning and a lot of
extra weight, she was strong all day - lots of impulsion, great
attitude. Very nice horse.
We finished with a nice trot - tried to tie for last place, but
Miguel's horse spooked at the finish gate. The grandkids had been
threatening to throw the last finisher in the water tank all day - so
I knew I was safe at this point! But determined to help save Miguel
from the soggy fate.
By now the little lake was a huge lake. And all the other 80km riders
had finished (we had been looped by the others) so all pitched in to
help. Pulsed the horses down with what was left of the water (in the
tanks) and vet and trot for completion. Finished! All of the Mora/Moro
horse had finished except Mora Furiosa - eliminated at the last check,
front end lameness. Probably still sore in the shoulder from the wreck
she a month ago - panicking from a rope which she caught under her
belly, and tightened the rope under her arm. I felt bad for Pablo,
he's still fairly new to the sport, but already loves it - and totally
enthusiastic. He had a good ride, but it sure is nice to have a good
finish too!
We had a nice dinner and closing ceremony at one of the beach
restaurants that night (starting at 9:30 - the Argentines have late
dinners compared to the US!). Very friendly affair, lots of support
and cheering. I have a lovely little plate enscripted with the ride
name, date and placing. Nice.
more later -
Steph
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