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Riding in Pinamar

Sunday morning, just finished breakfast (coffe and toast) at the little hotel we're staying - 'Las Auracarias'. Las Auracarias are nut bearing pine trees with short scaly leaves (looking more like cedars, but actually in the Pine family). The native Mapuche people in the mountain region of northwest Patagonia depended upon these nuts for part of their diet. It's an important, and also beautiful tree - tall and dark green - symmetrical foliage. There's a little Auracaria tree growing next to the hotel, but I don't think it would feed many... It's a sweet hotel, family owned, nothing fancy but clean and friendly.

We had a good ride yesterday. It was a very small ride, 55 riders in total for all distances - 20km, 40km, 80km and 120km. Felt a lot like a small local Idaho ride. (though the 20km gallop along the Atlantic coast was a fur piece from Idaho). The ride was organized by the Arab Horse Society (AHS). Even the small local rides are run according to FEI rules - but the only real obvious difference is requiring horses to have identification papers (passports) and having to meet weight (75kg) in the adult category. It didn't feel any different otherwise.

The Arabian Horse Society has some parallels to our AERC in the scheme of Endurance in Argentina. Smaller, and without it's own set of rules for the sport - but AHS has been organizing Endurance rides in Argentina for the past 25 years, and continues to do so. It's the backbone of the sport in Argentina. The FEI rides, organized by the Argentine Federation (like USEF in the USA) are relatively new, for the past 6 years or so.

There seems to be a little friction developing between the two organizations (what's new :) especially regarding scheduling of rides. With more Federation rides being organized some of the smaller, local rides are being squeezed a little - attendance is smaller. But it's pretty minor, and it's a little different here because individuals don't bear all of the financial burden of the ride. As always there is a group of individuals that do all of the work, but the ride is financed by the AHS.

The other main difference is that the ride participants don't 'camp' at the rides. There are no big gooseneck trailers and portable fences. The horses are stabled in camps or stalls provided by the organizing group, and all of the riders stay in hotels. Only the grooms camp out - in improvised tents and small trailers or vans. So this somewhat limits the location of rides - they can't be out in the boonies where hotels are scarce.

But the Pinamar ride is a long established ride - gorgeous trails along the coast and through the woods. (pine forests, not native to the area but planted 30+ years ago by a visionary). And also following the dirt roads through part of town - the outer nieghborhoods with kids playing and lots of barking dogs. Plenty to look (and spook) at. But it is really tough - lots of deep sand in the dunes. And, depending upon the tide, and how far out the horses can ride, the sand can be good and hard, or soft and deep. It's a challenging ride - it's going to be a tough Pan American for horses that don't have the sand conditioning.

Miguel and I finished this ride, with a few adventures along the way, with turtle ride times of around 6:50. Considering the deep sand and high heat and humidity, this would have been a respectable mid-pack finish in the US. They really do ride faster here in Argentina.

We had a fun day though. All of the Pavlovsky horses were stabled at Susana Lima's place, around 8km from the Hippocampo (where the ride takes place). Susana was also in Dubai for the WEC, it was fun to see her here on her home turf. She and Mercedes Tapia rode the 120km ride together, I suspect they had a lot to talk about. The experiences that riders share at the Big events are very significant. I've noticed that horses that do 100 mile rides together remember each other for life. I think it's similar with riders. (not that we'd ever actually forget each other, but the friendships and acquaintances take on a new level).

The 80km distance was scheduled to begin at 7AM - one hour after the 120's left. To arrive here with the horse, from Susana's place, would mean being at the stable before 5am, saddling up, and ponying or riding the horses to the Hippocampo. I've had a persistent cold the past week, fairly tired and whiney in general. Miguel took pity on me and offered to bring my horse over, I could meet them at the Hippocampo. A short hesitation... and a grateful thank you (Gracias)! An extra hour of sleep would be wonderful. Miguel is an extrodinarily dedicated, hard-working, focused individual. His generosity never ceases to amaze me, in many ways.

John and I drove over from the hotel (10 minute drive) and met up with the horses and crew. Pinney's were handed out, vet cards arranged, crewing area set up (a formidable vetting area for so many Pavlovsky horses and riders).

I would ride Miguel's mare Mora Afamada - a very tall, very strong, beautiful gray mare. She had only recently been brought back from extended rest (a minor tendon injury 1 1/2 yrs ago) and was a little plump still, a little anxious about being out in the big world, and a little hard to mount... but once on board a wonderful ride. Very nice mare - big strong steady gaits, a ride that is easy on the body.

Miguel was riding a gelding from the farm that was fairly inexperienced, so we planned on a conservative ride (by Argentine standards...). Pablo, Miguel's son-in-law would ride Mora Furiosa - a feisty gray mare with a lot of drive. She had had a series of mishaps in the previous months (halter moments) so her debut kept getting extended. Hopefully this would be a good ride for her. There were 8 Mora/Moro horses entered in total - plus the 4 grandchildren and Andie (one of Miguel's sons) doing the children's ride with Susana's horses. Everybody here pitches in and helps though - when not riding, you're helping. Just like home. It's quite the event.

The first loop was pure heaven. Although I kept thinking, as we were galloping along, 'this is conservative??', I had the luxury of being the guest, being a happy follower, not to worry, just ride and enjoy. We hit the beach around 5km from camp, and then 20 km of galloping along the coastline. 10km out to a check point, and then a 10km return. On the way out the horses were a little worried about the waves, skittering out when a wave broke long - plus the stray beach comber, fisherman, dog, crabnets - it was fun.

We passed under a pier at one point, 7 horses galloping together, and 7 horses coming to a screeching halt, a reiner's move, when just as we were ready to ride under the pier walkway, a man and fishing pole made his appearance above. It made great tracks in the sand :)

We started spreading out a little along the coastline, those intent on a competetive ride stretching out their lead. After the checkpoint and water, we headed back down the coast, repeating the trail back to camp. This time the horses were loving the water, choosing to gallop in the shallow waves. I think the water was cool and fresh, and maybe a little fun. For the riders, for me, it was definitely fun!!

Back to camp, a decent pulse down, though my plump mare took a little longer. Fun doing vet stuff in a different language... I can understand most of it, especially when discussing vet scores, but still have to leave a little to faith.

The second loop was a little more eventful. The horses still felt strong, and I still thought (this is conservative???) but had faith in Miguel and his horses. Around 5km out, the stirrup leather on Miguel's saddle broke. He tried to fix it, ended up tieing the stirrup on with the single strap of the leather and hooking the buckle on to the saddle stirrup leather hanger. Less then optimum, but it seemed that it might work. But it didn't. We made it to the beach again, for another stretch along the coast, but just as we hit the sand the leather broke again. There was nothing left to patch at this point.

A small voice from a nearby pickup emerged, a friendly face, an exchange in Spanish between Miguel and the voice, and our guardian angel appeared. Marta Acunado, with an extra stirrup leather and stirrup came to the rescue. What luck! She was parked there waiting for her friend who was riding just in front of us, and just happened to have extra tack! Not only luck, but again life in full circle.

While Miguel struggled with attaching the new stirrup leather onto his saddle (not designed for easy exchange) Marta and I blithely chatted away. Her English is perfect, having spent many years as an Argentine ex-pat. She competes in Show Jumping, and for her Endurance is for fun - for relief - for the experience of participating in a sport where humans and equines are so closely bound - where everybody counts and everybody cares. The riders, trainers, ride managers, helpers, grooms, all are important, and all willing to help each other.

Marta also took the opportunity to tell me how closely she had been following the events in Dubai and Abu Dhabi - how much she appreciated the coverage and stories that we provide on Endurance Net. She said "I've been meaning to send you email, thanking you for the 'real-life' adventures, but I guess I'll thank you in person instead!" What fun, what a cool thing to be standing there, on the coast of Argentina, talking of horses and Dubai and comraderie (while Miguel was still grunting and sweating over his saddle and stirrup leather...).

Finally, we were ready to ride again. The new stirrup leather wasn't exactly the right length, but ok to go. Another lovely, but shorter, ride along the coast and back, this time 'my' mare was really seeking the water, so lots of splashing. We made it back to camp, a little more relaxed, at this point confirmed tail-enders. It was really really hot now - humid, and no air. The feeling before a storm - Miguel said they call it 'pesado' which translates to 'heavy'. And it was hot and heavy. The horses took longer to pulse down this time, especially my chubby mare. But vetted ok, not perfect - a little dehydrated - but good to go.

By now the crewing area had transformed into a small lake. Team Pavlovsky had two home-made water cooling pumping things set up - a water pump hooked to a car battery - pumping cold water out of big tanks, with hoses and nozzles to cool the horses. The tanks are covered with spray-on foam for insulation - interesting design, slightly resembling a large fungus- and capable of rapidly cooling the horses. With 8 horses to cool, in a fairly small area, and a very enthusastic crewing team, things were getting pretty wet. We waded through the hold, sorting through saddle racks, tack, crew and small children (more grandchildren than horses) and headed out on the next loop.

This loop was through town - to the outskirts of Pinamar - dirt roads winding through the neighborhoods where the 'regular' folk live. Old men sitting outside their houses, children playing games in the road, folks on bicycles and scooters, ponies tied in the back yards, laundry hanging between trees, smells of fried food, and the ubiquitous barking chasing dogs. Dogs everywhere! It was actually fun riding these roads, lots to look at, lots of friendly smiles and waves and questions from the big-eyed kids. And a smile and wave always got a smile and wave in return.

Miguel and I were pretty relaxed by now - walking, trotting, some cantering, and lots of talking. No hurry. 'If you can't win, you might as well make a pretty good showing at being last'. Marta's friend was riding either in front or behind most of the day, and she was always there to tell us when we missed a turn (too much talking :) .

Back to camp, the lake was getting larger, vetting through, and then one more short 10km loop. Relaxed and pleasant. It was really hot and heavy still but the horses felt strong. I think 'my' mare, Mora Afamada is quite good - even with minimal conditioning and a lot of extra weight, she was strong all day - lots of impulsion, great attitude. Very nice horse.

We finished with a nice trot - tried to tie for last place, but Miguel's horse spooked at the finish gate. The grandkids had been threatening to throw the last finisher in the water tank all day - so I knew I was safe at this point! But determined to help save Miguel from the soggy fate.

By now the little lake was a huge lake. And all the other 80km riders had finished (we had been looped by the others) so all pitched in to help. Pulsed the horses down with what was left of the water (in the tanks) and vet and trot for completion. Finished! All of the Mora/Moro horse had finished except Mora Furiosa - eliminated at the last check, front end lameness. Probably still sore in the shoulder from the wreck she a month ago - panicking from a rope which she caught under her belly, and tightened the rope under her arm. I felt bad for Pablo, he's still fairly new to the sport, but already loves it - and totally enthusiastic. He had a good ride, but it sure is nice to have a good finish too!

We had a nice dinner and closing ceremony at one of the beach restaurants that night (starting at 9:30 - the Argentines have late dinners compared to the US!). Very friendly affair, lots of support and cheering. I have a lovely little plate enscripted with the ride name, date and placing. Nice.

more later -

Steph


Testing ... Back In Pinamar || Argentina: The Pampas || Index of Stories


Leaving Gate 1 at Pinamar

Young Rider Ready to Go!

BC Trotout

BC Trotout

A 120km Completion

Evaluating a Trot

Leaving for Final Loop

BC Evaluation on the 80km

2005 Pan American Endurance Championships, April 13-15 2005

Presented by Endurance Net