Re: Martingales, head tossing etc.

["S. Brown" <sbrown@wamedes.com>]

>I was taught to keep a straight line with the reins to the horse's mouth
no matter how high their head goes so that the horse can't evade the bit.
Keeping a steady contact encourages the horse to drop his head into a more
comfortable position. This technique worked for me when I first got my mare
and couldn't even see over the top of her head. 
>
You are right here.  I will elaborate a bit. ;-)

When horses are green to snaffle contact or have had a prior miserable
experience (ie pain), their reaction to contact is avoidance.  It is a
restraint of sorts and the animal flight instinct is pretty strong
(remember -- the strong and quickly reactive ones were the survivors...in
evolution, only the strongest, fastest, and most alert and thinking animals
survived.)  They also have a tremendous memory for pain. ;-)

When you start a green or anxious horse in bit contact, it is imperative
that you first totally relax the horse on the ground and then in the
saddle...slow walk on the buckle.  It may take someone being with you to
side-walk or lunge you at first...and by lunge, I don't mean running in a
circle to "get the bucks out" -- that's a whole 'nother discussion. ;-)
Once you have the horse relaxed, gradually take up contact until you can
feel about 2 lbs. of weight in your hands.  You may have to add a little
bit of leg at this time since the contact will result in a hesitation of
forward movement, but keep at the formerly relaxed state.  Since contact is
a new concept or a formerly bad one, the horse will react by moving it's
head around.  That's okay.  DO NOT lock him into a frame.  To be "on the
bit" (which is actually *on the aids*), he needs to find his balance with
this 2 lb. contact.  You follow his head where ever he goes!!  He will
learn that contact is light, consistent (don't "throw him away" or develop
loops in your reins, then contact, then loops, and so on -- that creates a
lack of trust and it hurts), and, if you are consistent, not painful.  And
yes, when he throws his head *up*, follow it by bringing your hands up and
keeping that straight line and consistent contact.  He will find out that
he can't escape the contact and that you aren't going to hurt him.  As he
gets stronger and more confident, he will be able to support his head
himself in a nice balanced frame with your steady contact.

All of this prior is done at the walk until the two of you are soooo damned
good it's pathetic <vbg> BEFORE you start doing trot work.  Unless you are
the most awesome rider at the sitting trot and you have the MOST QUIET
hands in the country, always post the trot at this point.  Even then, you
MUST avoid moving your hands around independently of the horse's head. <g>
Post by thinking about moving your hips up between your hands...it'll help
stabilize them.

During all of these work sessions (and take your time since rushing into
the next step before the first one is established will back-fire on you) be
sure to let your horse out on a longer rein (but DON'T LET GO OF YOUR
CONTACT!!) for an occasional stretch of those top line muscles you are
asking him to work.  Do this about every 5 minutes for about 30 seconds and
then pick him *gently* back up.  At first, his reaction when you let him
have a bit more rein may be to speed up (use that outside hand squeezing
into a fist to slow him down and do it as he *starts* to speed up) or to
yank the reins out of your hand. If he does, just pick him back up and go
back to work.  He will learn that you will give him a chance to relax his
neck and stretch out those muscles on a *regular* basis BEFORE he gets
crampy and grumpy...and will gradually and gently lower his head keeping
the contact.

>I also found it helpful to do that "chewing through the reins" exercise at
a walk and trot. 

This is what I described in the previous paragraph.  When you let him down
for a stretch, gradually inch your way to longer reins one side at a time
(and alternating sides) -- don't just lengthen the reins and expect him to
follow.  That won't happen since you are essentially "dropping him".  He
won't be very good at "chewing the reins" until he understands what you're
asking him to do and he has control of that heavy head with his topline
muscles.  THEN he will be "chewing the reins out of the rider's hands" -- a
Training Level, test 2 or 3 movement, I believe.  (Don't have my tests at
hand this moment.)

Now let me emphasize here that this is ONLY about what to do with the
reins.  While all of this is going on, most of your riding will be with
your body.  'Nother subject also. ;-)

Sue



sbrown@wamedes.com
Tyee Farm
Marysville, Wa.