RC: Re: training question

[Sue Brown <sbrown@wamedes.com>]

>Sharon said:
>>horse moves off, they move INTO you instead of away, making it easier to
>>get on and then continue the circle.  Then I dismount and do it again
>>till horse stands for mounting.
>>
>>Linda
>
>Hi Linda,  I have found by shortening the outside rein, the horse moves
>into you all right but I don't like that rear end swinging toward me while
>the horse is focused away from me.

I started with the positioning as described by Linda, then switched later
on to the positioning as described by Sharon.  What I've ended up with over
the years is a training method that is more than simply the act of standing
still during mounting.

We first make sure that the horse (untied) can stand quietly while you move
around them, touch them, fiddle with the reins, tighten the girth, check
the pad, check the bridle, adjust the stirrups, etc.  They must understand
that they are *not to move* even one foot (unless it's an obvious attempt
to place their feet in a more comfortable, stable position) and *any*
movement is countered with loud, sharp, game-show buzzer noise and told
*QUIT* in no uncertain terms!  If the movement persists after a couple of
times, the game-show buzzer noise is accompanied by one hard tap near the
offending leg on the shoulder or thigh muscle.  They don't move on to the
next phase until you have them cooperating with you at this level.  Take
your time and be very business-like.

The next phase is the actual mounting.  We use mounting blocks at all times
with the exception of training a person mount from the ground and the odd
time that you don't have a log or something equivalent to stand on out on
the trails.  (Easier on the horses back and easier on my tack. ;-))  The
horse is walked up to the mounting block and told to HO and STAND.  A final
check is done on the girth, stirrups, etc. (horse should be completely
still) then the reins are taken up *to the point* of contact or, in the
case of a leverage bit, to the point where it would start to engage.  Any
movement at this time is greeted with the good, ole (now *very
recognizable*) obnoxious buzzer sound and a check on the reins by slightly
turning of your hand.  The reins should be straight with a very, very
slight bend of the neck towards you just so you can look them in their eye
(and keep their attention! ;-)), and held in the hand with a bit of the
mane at the withers.  If the horse moves away from you and you need to
reposition, reposition him by asking him to move over...don't walk him
around to reposition unless there is no other choice.  Going for a little
stroll is more of a reward.  At all times be calm yourself -- don't act
angry and don't get into a monologue with the horse...you'll lose his focus
*on you*.  And take it slowly -- you want to give him every opportunity to
do it right so don't act hurried and get him excited.  During their
training sessions at home, you also want to go slowly to give them the
opportunity to move if their going to be so inclined.  It's easier, at that
time, to clear up any misconceptions of the term "STAND" and any dominance
issues. ;-)  

The last part is what happens right after you have mounted.  The horse is
to *remain* standing until YOU tell him to move off.  Here again, use the
buzzer noise (1st offense), noise, a check on the reins, and a *QUIT* (2nd
offense), and all of the above accompanied by one strong tap for a 3rd
offense.  The idea is to escalate the negative reinforcement remarkably for
repeat offenses.  There aren't many horses that will opt for the third
level.  Eventually they won't like 2nd level either. They must also remain
quiet and stand if you have to make any tack adjustments, either then,
after 20 steps, or after 10 minutes.  Stand still is stand still!  

The last part isn't about mounting, but it's about dismounting and the
horse's reaction to you moving around on the ground.  They are to *stand
still* during dismounting (go slowly and pause at different points of the
dismount (give them all the opportunity to move around) and then reinforce
the standing (with the afore mentioned technique including sitting back
down on the saddle if necessary.)  After you dismount, they are to CONTINUE
standing in place (eventually to the point of no unessential movement)
unless you direct them to walk off with you -- to cue this, you start by
standing near their shoulder (facing the shoulder) and then turning sharply
and walk forward -- they should follow you and maintain your position by
their neck.  They should do this, eventually, without you holding them at
all..and also learn to stand when you walk away from them in different ways
and directions.  While they're walking with you, practice stopping them by
turning sharply inward and stopping, facing their shoulder...they should
halt and return to their standing position immediately...*and not move*!
If you use this consistently as their cue to move (and follow you) and halt
at your request, they won't be confused by your moving around them...and
will learn to stand still *at all times* when told to.

Sue  

sbrown@wamedes.com
Tyee Farm
Marysville, Wa.


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