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I was wondering when you were going to jump into this trailer discussion!
To everyone - there's another trailer option - have a custom builder
build a trailer for you to your specs. This is what Monte and Nancy
Mitts do here in SW Missouri. They build new trailers and customize
existing ones. I've seen Monte's work and it's very good with clever
details. He is a very experienced endurance rider so he knows what works
good in camp as well pulling down the interstate! I found the paint
discussions of particular interest because many manufacturers do NOT use
automotive primers, paint, and clear coats. A good paint job should
last!
Diana Benson
Joplin MO
On Mon, 05 May 97 14:30:23 CDT Nancy Mitts <MS-MITTS@VM.MSSC.EDU> writes:
>Since we have spent the last 5 years repairing trailers I'd like to
>add a
>little of what we've learned to this discussion. Trailer body
>construction is
>a lot more complicated than a car. The large volume of each car model
>sold
>allows a lot of parts to be molded together. Trailers are constructed
>one
>peice at a time & have a lot more individual parts that must be
>joined. Due
>to the large size, there is a lot of flexing going on over rough
>interstates
>and rougher dirt roads. Not to mention 1000# animals throwing their
>weight
>around. Since the trailers must be able to flex somewhat,many joints
>cannot be
>welded solid, only spot welded. The number of roof bows and floor
>supports is
>one thing to look for in a well built trailer. The more roof support,
>the less
>likely to leak. The most effective caulking is done at the factory
>between
>coats of primer. We have seen trailers that weren't even primed at
>all. One
>trailer had a bare strip down the center of the roof that had never
>been
>painted at all. Metal prep. is really important. Even new metal must
>be
>blasted or acid washed before painting. AVOID UNDERCOATING!!!!
>Moisture still
>leaks in the joints & is trapped between the metal & coating, rusting
>even
>faster than if it leaked through. It is VERY difficult to remove for
>repainting
>and if we aren't replacing all the metal it costs more to repaint.
>Even flat
>roof buildings leak, try to leave your trailer parked at a slight
>angle if it's
>not under roof.
>Aluminum "rust" is a white powder & hard to see. Inspect aluminum
>floors
>regularly as urine & manure are damaging to aluminum & steel.
>When looking at a used trailer or replacing your floor tap floor
>supports
>with a hammer to knock off loose rust & make sure there's still solid
>metal
>there.
>Carefully examine all exposed wiring & make sure it's not rubbing on
>the edge
>of metal tubing. Brake wires are easily torn loose by field stubble &
>downed
>branches.(Most of us end up going places trailers weren't really
>designed to
>go!)
>I could go on but this is probably long enough for one post.
>If you ever tried to read the government regulations there already
>are, you
>wouldn't want more! A knowledgable dealer should willingly answer all
>your
>questions and help you maintain your trailer properly.
>Nancy Mitts
>Custom Iron Workers, Inc.
>CIW Trailers & Safety Pens
>
>
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