Re: silly bit guard question

[Sue Brown <sbrown@wamedes.com>]

>
> Last of all, this horse tends to duck behind the vertical from previous
> training (I hate draw reins).  I will use a med.-large diameter snaffles. 
> Would a mullen mouthpiece be a better choice for her than a french link?  I
> have ordered one of the thick plastic apple-mouth french link bits.  I would
> like to help her get comfortable with bit contact.
>  

First of all, I agree with you on the draw reins (and side reins as
well)...you
get horses that come behind the bit or learn to lean while developing the
underside muscles of their neck instead of the topline.  This is not
developing
the back or abdominal muscles as desired so virtually is (IMO) a worthless
tack
gimmick. 

Before you decided on a large diameter snaffle, check to make sure that the
horse's mouth can accommodate it.  Very few horses are really comfortable in a
fat snaffle...they can't get their lips around the bit and end up with a very
dry mouth, which is not comfortable to them or very sensitive for you.  Most
horses will be comfortable in a medium size bit.  Too small makes the bit more
severe.  Try a Boucher French link...it attaches to the bridle in a way that
lifts the bit off of the tongue a bit and holds it in place...a good thing for
green horses that are a bit reluctant to hold bit contact.

A mullen mouth bit is okay also but you lose the ability to have the cues from
your right hand not affect the left side of the horse's mouth.  With my
horses,
I use a mullen mouth kimberwicke on the trail until they are ready for a
sidepull (or when I need some brakes at the beginning...and will switch to the
sidepull later on) and a French link in the arena for their dressage
exercises.  I have used a loose ring french link but find the bit too
"movable"
for the green horses who need a bit with more stability (as in the Baucher
french link.)  I've never been attracted to the apple flavored ones since I
consider that aspect another gimmick.  Have heard of some that like them.

Most important parts tho, to get your horse comfortable in the bit set-up, are
your hands and your riding.  With a green horse that hasn't developed the
ability to hold their head on contact for more a short while or one that
hasn't
figured out exactly where their best balance is and where they should hold
their head, you need to keep your contact extremely consistent!  This means
that you have to establish your 2 pounds maximum contact and stay with the
wandering head -- and never waver from your established contact weight.  It's
tremendously important that the horse learn to trust the contact so you don't
want to be banging her in the chops every time she moves her head by having
contact then not, then having it, then not, and so on.  Keep your arms relaxed
and your elbows active.  She will eventually get better at holding her head
quietly and will develop the muscles on the top of her neck that are needed
for
holding the head in that nice relaxed vertical position (as opposed to the one
the is acquired by strapping their head in place.)  

Be sure to let her take the reins down and stretch her neck every 5 minutes or
so...don't drop her or throw the reins away, but gradually let her "chew" the
reins alternately out of your hands and stretch her head down.  When she's
done
stretching, pick the reins back up and go back to your consistent contact.  If
she learns that you will be there and you won't be hurting her, she'll relax
and respond much better to your small communications (vibrating the reins,
squeezing your hand, and so on) and your teamwork with her will be much more
effective.

Sue 

sbrown@wamedes.com
Tyee Farm
Marysville, Wa.