Hello! We just finished the first day of our fifth week of the 2001
XP. It's been pretty hot, and just so anybody else shows up to the ride
and thought that when I say it has been hot, they aren't expecting it to be
only 80 or 90 degrees (Grin). It's been really hot! It's 4 p.m. and now
because of cloud cover the temp is only 92 degrees. We are baking!
I sponsored Kayla (junior) again today. She's not only one of three people
who have ridden every single day but the only person who has ridden the
entire way so far on just two horses. The other two riders who have
completed every day are Terry Wooley and MJ Jackson. They each have four
horses. I'm not absolutely positive that they are the only three but
we're pretty sure. :+)
We left Stinking Creek at 5:00 a.m. this morning. Got up at 3 a.m. to
leave Casper in time to get there for the 5:00 a.m. start. I wasn't tired
today though, not like some of the other first days of the week. A few new
riders. The rest of us just sorta plod along and take our time. We have
12 hours, so what is the hurry? We took 9 hours today, which was one of
our faster days, we even top tenned! But it's a dry heat (did I mention
that it was HOT?), so we're more comfortable with it. There was more water
on the trail, and crews watered us in spots.
We were wondering who the new crew was driving around with Idaho
plates. Duh! It's Steph and John's kids out there. They are learning and
should get the hang of it pretty soon.
At the finish they were giving out watermellon. It was a long day but the
trail was nice, we went by more wagon ruts and some historical markers. I
rode a lot of today with a few people off and on besides Kayla -- Dorothy
Sue (who's doing great with Abu), Terry Nance, Louise Mahoney, Tinker and
Karen Nelson and Robbi Pruitt. Robbi did a special little mud dance for
everybody this morning, but I missed getting any photos until later.
I weighed the horses again tonight. Weaver is at 1020 and Rocky is
sticking right around 900. So we're doing okay I guess, everybody thinks
that Weaver just got here (Grin), and Rocky has been eating like I've never
seen him eat before. He is doing better now on the trail (he was a major
twit last week), still a lot of energy but he's much less bored now that we
are doing some hills and trails. I try and keep me and Kayla going at 9
mph or less and everytime we go faster I'll hear from Kayla "you're
speeding". :+D
Trilby found a new driver. She went down to the unemployment office and
got somebody there. The guy hadn't shown up with her rig by the time she
made it at lunch today and she was worried that perhaps he'd gone off and
pawned her whole rig (vbg). He did show up, we'll see how this works out.
Tomorrow is the 4th of July, so we are all going to wear red white and
blue, and have little flags to put in our helmets. We're going to have a
lot of fun!
I better get the photos done, till later....
Karen...sweating in the shade
in Wyoming
It was another hot day, even the Texans thought so. We have some cloud
cover now so it feels a bit cooler. Today we rode from Murphy Ranch to Ice
Slough, Wyoming. It's the 4th of July, and everybody dressed up in red
white and blue. We also put little flags on our helmets or our horses
bridles.
Another 5 a.m. start, which is a good thing since it is so hot. I
sponsored Kayla again today and we finished at 4:25 p.m. My GPS odometer
says we went 52.3 miles today. In the morning we rode past Independence
Rock, and then thru Devil's Gate and past all the handcarts, pioneer graves
and other historical markers. Then we spent a good deal of the day riding
on Pony Express, Mormon, California and Oregon trail. It was a really
great day!
MJ pulled today, so the only two riders left who have ridden every day are
Kayla (junior), and Terry Wooley. The most exciting part is that Kayla has
ridden on only two horses and they are still going and in really great
shape. :+)) She has more horses available now, but hopes to keep riding
Gem and Buddy, they are both doing really well for her. We have fun riding
together, she is my co-navigator.....I follow where the GPS arrow shows to
go, and she reads the written directions and map to make sure we're passing
all the right landmarks. It must work because we haven't gotten lost yet,
at least not more than a few feet past any one turn.
Today a couple of people got lost -- Dave Rabe and Sands first missed a
gate and kept going down a road, then later John and Steph Teeter followed
the footprints the wrong way and also got misplaced. Steph said she lost
her GPS, it fell out of her pack. We were kinda wondering why they ended
up finishing behind us when they were ahead of us after lunch.
In the morning we passed two rattlesnakes. The first one was on the
pavement, so easy to avoid. Then later, Dolly was trotting thru the grass
and quickly decided to move over after seeing a big fat rattler over
there. So we were really keeping a watch out for them. There are a lot of
large badger holes around that we have to look out for too. Most of the
footing today was excellent.
For a section or two, we had some awful bugs. We'd been warned, so the
horses had been fly sprayed and wiped but it didn't do any good. We got
thru those sections though, and it wasn't so bad after that. In one area
we had a whole herd of horses gallop up and then ride alongside us. I got
several good photos of them. We were picking which ones to take with us,
in case we needed another horse to ride.
Before lunch we had a long section of about 14 miles without any water, and
boy was it ever hot....much to our delight over the hill came Jim Mitchell
in 4WD to the rescue, bringing water for everybody, and then going back for
more after he ran out. The horses really drank a lot then, it was a real
lifesaver. Jim was also busy crewing for April, Jamie and Alicia who all
rode today too.
Ruthie rode the new horse she bought at the Rushcreek Ranch today to
Independence Rock. He is a bay and looks really nice. Dave said it took
him an hour to get water at the RV station, and he was one of the first
ones there.....water is getting to be a precious commodity right now, in
some places we have to pay ten cents a gallon, and lots of it isn't potable.
Well, I better get more done around here before the ride meeting, it's been
a long, hot day.
Happy XP Trails,
Karen
Have I mentioned anything about the wind yet? Well......oh boy is it
windy! If it isn't battened down by now, no point in worrying about it
anymore! It's blowing pretty hard, most of the horses are chasing their
hay bags around, and the humans are chasing everything else! Looks like
some thundershowers are heading our way, we've had a few sprinkles already.
Today was a really great day, I rode Rocky again and he finished his 11th
day or 550 miles of the Pony Express trail. The weather was gorgeous
today, it felt cooler probably only in the 80's and we had a breeze (which
is currently a wind!). The trail is a lot of fun. There are historical
markers marking the entire way showing where the Pony Express, Oregon,
California and Mormon trails went. In spots you can see wagon ruts.
Still starting at 5 a.m. It's dark right up until we start, and still then
not much light. So we get to see beautiful sunrises every morning, and
since we're headed west we don't have the sun in our eyes.
Bob and Pat Verhuel both rode today. They had some truck problems and I
guess some other people in camp helped get everything fixed, so Pat had her
rig back in time for supper. She's riding tomorrow she says. I'll have to
ask her if she misses the corn yet (just kidding). :+D
Steve Shaw is fixing another flat tire on his trailer. Their 3rd one.
Barney and Linda have had two flats and are getting them fixed now. It
seems like everywhere we go, somebody has a rig jacked up fixing a tire.
Louise took the day off but is riding tomorrow, and Steve Shaw is riding
one of her horses. They had to put the top down on their camper since it's
so windy. A little breeze is nice while we are riding, but tonight it's
shaking our trailers.
We're camped up on this nice bluff overlooking this beautiful little valley
below that is lush green with trees and an old wooden barn. Last night we
had a lot of mosquitos eating the horses. Doesn't look like we'll have
that problem tonight. ha
We see a lot of antelope and birds. Keeping an eye out for snakes. Lots
of cows..........still in cattle country. There is some grass for the
horses to graze but it's getting drier. Hey guess what, Rocky I think has
finally realized what is going on (Grin), and has been eating even better than
before...he never stopped while I tacked him up this morning, and he wants
to eat constantly going down the trail too. Weaver is well......Weaver.
We stopped at the Sweetwater to sponge the horses off, and after a few
dips, up came my string sans sponge! So Jim Mitchell gallantly rode to the
sponges rescue downstream where it was deeper and retrieved it for me.
I sponsored Kayla again today, and also rode a little with Robbi, Dorothy
Sue, and Jim and Jamie Mitchell. We all pretty much finished
together. The kids went first, tied for 8th place then the rest of us. I
told Robbi I'd give her a GPS lesson later, I think she needs it!
(don't tell her I said that)
Happy XP Trails,
Karen
Hello from Farson, Wyoming! We just finished up the 24th day of the 2001
XP. It's raining and storming on us now, but most of the day was
absolutely gorgeous. Today was another long day, over 52 miles. Weaver
seems to be the one who gets all of the longer days, the last time I rode
him he went 53 miles. The days are long, usually ranging from 9 to 11 1/2
hours with 5:00 a.m. starts.
The rain is really coming down right now. The horses have their rain gear
on, and are happily eating away. Everything is covered so I just have to
wait until the ride meeting in half an hour then go to bed. Tomorrow is
the last day of the week and then we get one day off before starting the
next ride week which will only be four days long. The schedule is going to
change on us from here on out.
We walked over to the local cafe tonight and ate dinner there, it was
great! Then we went and got an ice cream at the mercantile store, which was
extremely good -- huge scoops, and I don't think there is anybody here that
didn't get one (or two!!)
The trail today was on more of the official Pony Express trail, completely
marked with historical trail markers--it's really something to be riding
thru this country, most of it totally unchanged since the original Pony
Express riders and Pioneers went thru.
We went over South Pass today, it was a gradual enough of a climb that it
didn't seem like much. The wind kept us cooled down which was of great
benefit for the horses. Crews were out watering us which was really
appreciated. Along the way there is an occasional creek or pond to water
the horses, and grass for them to eat. The Duck was out along the way with
a water trough in the morning too, so that was nice.
On the way into lunch, not very far out from the vet check we were riding
along, Kayla and I. She asks me every day "are you sick of me yet can I
ride with you tomorrow", and of course I say yes because she smiles and is
always happy. Some of those grown-ups get pretty grouchy you know!
(big grin) So anyway.....her horse Buddy takes a stumble and then falls down and
then next thing you know, with Kayla on his back he flips completely
over. I was behind her and saw the whole thing and was so scared that he
was going to land on her. Luckily, she fell off to one side and after he
flipped over he sort of rolled onto her leg. She was able to get out from
under him and get up and then she grabbed his reins and waited for him to
get up. He was having trouble, and finally got up onto two legs. His back
leg was bent backwards really oddly and the front leg was being held out as
well so he could hardly stand up at all. I made sure that Kayla was
allright, she said her leg hurt but she was okay and to go get help. So I
ran the rest of the way into the vet check....Bonnie Way was ahead and went
back to make sure everything was okay and John and Steph were behind (but
didn't see any of this happen)......Dave Rabe was in camp and he knew
something was wrong when I came running in on pavement because he told my
husband that he knew I'd never run my horse over pavement if something
wasn't wrong. The Duck and John (Kayla's grandpa) and Jim Mitchell all
drove out to where Kayla was right away and they all took care of her, and
of Buddy too. Kayla did say that nobody seemed to care about her horse
(just her), which of course was all that she was worried about. After a
few moments Buddy did get much better and was able to walk the rest of the
way in camp, where he was taken care of.
Kayla is a real trooper though, and in true Pony Express
fashion.......saddled up another horse and rode the second half of the
ride. She doesn't want to miss any of it! I was so glad that she did
that, and that she was out there again with a smile on her face. She
wasn't going to do that until everybody promised to take care of Buddy for
her until she got back.
On the way back there was a huge horned sheep of some sort, and Weaver
chased him away for us. Rocky would have ran the other way---it's always
funny how when things like that happen I seem to be on the horse that deals
with it the best.
John and Libby Bass stopped by to visit us on their way to the Bighorn
ride. We might see them on the way back going thru Schellbourne.
After lunch I rode a lot of the way with Steph, Patty, Karen B., and some
with Jeff and Debby, and Carol.....finished with a whole hour and 20
minutes to spare, got into camp about 4 p.m. (5 a.m. start), these days are
long and hot and tiring but nowhere else I'd rather be.
Tinker left today to go get more horses, and Louise is leaving tomorrow for
the weekend. Most everybody else has been staying, though not everybody is
riding every day. Steve Shaw rode one of Louise's horses today, and Pat V.
rode a grey horse.
Happy XP Trails,
Karen
We finished the last day of our fifth week of the 2001 XP today. We're
currently on our way to Fort Bridger, Wyoming where we are going to spend
our one day off before starting back again on Monday.
The trail has been really great, lots of good footing, some hills to climb,
rivers to ford and plenty of historical markers to read. It was also nice
today because we got rained on and had good cloud cover and that kept us
and the horses cooled down. It was another long day, my GPS read 51.3
miles....either we got lost, or I spent a lot of time walking to warm the
horse up this morning. I'll see once I download my tracks onto the computer.
Each day, the start at 5:00 a.m. is darker and darker.......most of the
riders sorta mosey out of camp at their own pace, one or two at a time or
in small groups at a walk. I sponsored two juniors today, Kayla and
Jamie. Kayla was in pretty good shape after yesterdays accident. Going
into lunch we got to cross the Green River, which was really
neat........the horses went right off a steep bank on once side, there was
no stopping them they were thirsty. Then we went across, Rocky was almost
wanting to trot across since he knew camp was on the other side. Everybody
got a lot of good pictures.
After lunch we had only gone a few miles when Jamie's horse didn't seem
right. So I found a cell phone from a passing crew rig and called Dave (my
crew) and told him which waypoint we were at and he came and picked the
horse up and took it to the vet. Everything turned out okay. Jamie has
ridden and completed 17 days on Lance now, and this would have been #18.
I did ask around and found out who has ridden the most days on the least
horses. This isn't official by any means, so don't take my word for
it! Just our best guessing at this point. The horse that has done the
most days is Sunny, ridden by Carol. He is a mustang and is from Oregon
and has done 19 days. Next is Kathy Thompson and Zane Grey and we aren't
sure how many days he's completed, but it's pretty close to 19, then
Lance--Jamie's horse at 17. After that you've got three or four riders who
have done the most days on two horses and that would be Kayla, myself,
Jamie and Pat Verhuel. There currently is nobody who has ridden every day
of the (AERC) ride. Terry had been doing really great, but pulled before
lunch. She was a real trooper though and went out and crewed and brought
water and lemonade out to riders on the trail after lunch with her
crewperson, Karen. So the only rider who has now ridden every single mile
of trail (even though one day doesn't count for AERC purposes), is
Kayla. Zane Grey has the most BC's, probably a dozen or more. I'll have
to ask but it sure seems like a lot. Joyce Sousa got BC yesterday. Clark
Palfreyman was first.
Trilby did not ride again today. Her new driver quit and was last seen
(seriously) hitchiking back home. Somebody gave him a ride back to Rock
Springs, so he's well on his way.
I was going to go this coming day off and get my third horse to replace one
of my other two with but Barney and Linda talked me out of it. My guys
have done 23 1/2 of the 25 days so far. We're going to keep going!
Happy XP Trails,
Karen
We're camped at Fort Bridger State Park about 60 miles east of the Utah border. On the west side of the continental divide,
the Uinta mountain range is in sight - headed that way this week.
We arrived at camp outside of Casper, Wyoming last
Saturday - June 30. Nice camp, along a sandy shaded creek. Spirits were a little low throughout camp - everybody was TIRED
from the previous month. Too much heat and not enough sleep. Quite a few folks had lost pets along the way to random traffic
accidents. Many riders had packed up and left before we arrived problems with horses, problems with crews, or just not having
any fun. Some of the crews stayed on though and took up with new riders. And the day before we arrived the roads took a large
toll on vehicles. Rough road and steep grade proved too much for some of the trucks and motorhomes.
But - most of the folks we talked to were very positive about the whole experience. Yes they were tired, too many hot humid days,
random problems, but still having a great time. And determined to see it through. Many of them started doing half day rides instead of
trying to do the whole 50 miles each day. Some took more days off, just riding when they wanted to, and doing more exploring on their
own. The folks with a positive, flexible approach seem to be thriving.
John and I rode every day last week, alternating horses and taking it as slowly as possible, averaging 10 hr days. The days have been
plenty challenging - rolling terrain, mixed footing - generally good, but a fair amount of sand and rock too, and the afternoons get very
hot. We crossed the continental divide two days ago, and have been riding at around 6000 ft elevation. Mornings have been wonderful,
but by 10am it gets hot. We start at 5am so at least the ride is half over by the time it gets really hot, but the afternoons have been grueling.
The starts and early hours have been great. It's barely light at the 5 AM starts, we saddle up in the dark and usually hand walk the horses
for the first mile or so. We get to watch the sun come up and there have been some spectacular sunrises. The last few days we've
actually had a bright moon for the first hour or so before sunrise.
We actually rode the 'real' trail for the past five days - the Oregon/Mormon/California/PonyExpress trail. This has been a surprisingly
poignant experience for me (and for several others that I've talked to). There are markers all along the way, and also monuments at
special landmarks - with short descriptions and explanations. In many places you could see the deep ruts from the wagons. John and
I both have great-grandparents that came across the trail in wagon trains. Mine to Utah and California, John's settled in the Snake River
basin in Idaho. Riding along this trail one can almost imagine what it must have been like. Rocks, sand, alkali flats, mud, river crossings,
dust, hot sun, wind, bugs - not to mention loss of family members to cholera, dehydration, malnutrition. My mother told me about her
grandmother who came across with the Mormon migration - she was so terrified of the river crossings they had to actually tie her to the
wagons before they crossed. My father's mother came across as a child and settled in California - she developed a strong love of the
land and a desire to become a naturalist.
We stopped at one monument, the 'Parting of the Ways', which was a point in the trail where some travelers went south - and some headed
north. The descriptiong mentioned the sorrow of parting after having travelled together for 1000 miles, probably never to see each other again.
There must have been some lingering spirit there - I was overwhelmed by emotion - and afterwards discovered that others had felt the same
thing. This awe and respect for the Oregon trail - and the travellers - has been somewhat of a surprise to me. I'm not much of a history buff
(too much excitement in the 'here and now') and didn't anticipate how much it would affect me. The riding, the scenery, the XP2001 adventure -
all of this has been wonderul, but the sense of history has been the most overwhelming.
The XP2001 adventure ... well, I am totally impressed by what Dave Nicholson (the Duck) has accomplished. The use of the GPS and waypoint
navigation is brilliant. He collected waypoints (latitude/longitude coordinates) for the entire 2000 miles last season. Some sections have changed and
he's had to go out and collect new ones on the fly, but we have always had a navigable course to follow. He loads waypoints for the week onto
everybody's GPS and every morning the riders activate the appropriate route. There have been very few problems following the course - and the
only problems have been caused by riders failing to follow the waypoints for one reason or another. He also provides a printed page with the
waypoints and landmark description itemized (e.g. WP 8904 Cattle guard w gate, follow main trail West) and also a topo map with the waypoints
marked. And these are definitely 50 mile courses - every mile, or half-mile has at least one geographic coordinate waypoint. The nightly ride meetings
are always an event! Ann Nicholson (who as usual is holding things together in her kind and gentle way) gives a rundown of the day - finishers,
placement, a few stories and highlights, and then Dave takes over. Description of the trail, things to watch out for, historical aspect of the trail,
and always a story or rambling which has everybody at the meeting laughing (or groaning). Dave seems to be in fine form. I can't imagine
anybody else who could pull off something of this magnitude.
There have been a few glitches with the camps (wrong spot, irate land owners) but mostly that has gone well too. Barny Fleming is doing a
tremendous job as veterinarian. He and Linda seem to be always cheerful and supportive. Even the day that they had two flat tires within 5 miles
trying to get from the lunch vetcheck to the finish in time to meet the front riders. The pink tutu Barney wore on day 24 was a big hit. The little
things that keep spirits high...
We took today off - the day's ride looked awfully tedious and we want to save the horses for the nicest days. We spent the day running the
lunch vetcheck giving Ann a day off. Pleasant day - nice to see all the riders come in and spend time chatting with Barney and others.
My hour at the Mountain View library is just about up - will send this off and try to spend some more time later writing. It's an amazing
adventure. I'm not sure how many days we'll try to ride - these are tough days - but I suspect we'll enjoy ourselves no matter what we
choose to do.
Tomorrow - the mountains.
Steph
This link will take you to
www.endurohorse.com.
To get to the XP photos use their search tool (top right). Search using the phrase "XP 2001". Enjoy!
in Ice Slough, Wyoming
22 days down, 18 to go
& Weaver, 500 XP miles
& Rocky, 500 XP miles
near South Pass, Wyoming 23 days down, 17 left!
in Farson, Wyoming
24 days down, 16 left!
near Fort Bridger, Wyoming